Intro To Textiles

 

Introduction

The word textile is derived from the Latin Textilis which means weaving, cloth, cloth. Fabrics can be defined as products made in exchange for threads or thread. Detailed description includes any intermediate or final product made in textile industry. Therefore, the term fabric includes threads, threads, threads, and fabrics, woven and woven fabrics and non-woven fabrics.

What is Textile?

A textile product passes through several processes in its manufacturing before it becomes wearable. These processes include spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garments manufacturing. The flow of these processes is shown in Fig.

History of Textiles

The use of fabrics can be traced back to the Neolithic Age (Tab.). People About 4000 BC the use of hand-woven weaving in Europe was also made of wool and flax.

Tab. 1.1:

Period	Evolution	Raw Material	Spinning	Weaving	Knitting
Stone Age	Animal skins	ü
4000 BC	Wool, flax (linen) Hand-operated spindle Loom	ü	ü	ü
1350 AD	Cotton in Central Europe Manual spinning wheel Treadle loom	ü	ü	ü
1350	Flyer spinning wheel of Leonardo da Vinci narrow fabric loom		ü	ü
1589	Manual knitting loom of W. Lee				ü
1764	Cotton, wool, flax First spinning machine “Spinning Jenny”	ü	ü
1785              First use of steam engines Mechanical weaving loom			ü	ü
1793–1846 Cotton gin Jacquard machine Self-acting mule Ring spinning machine Production of gun cotton		ü ü	ü ü	ü
1863–1900 Flat knitting machine of J. W. Lamb Viscose fibre, Cupro fibre, Acetate Weaving loom with automated weft change and electrical drive		ü		ü	ü
1914             Weft insertion with air jet				ü
1935–1942 Development of polyamides 6 and 6,6, polyurethane, polyester,  polyacrylnitrile		ü
1950–1955 Loom with shuttles ( 200 min–1) Open-end spinning technology Water jet weaving machine			ü	ü ü
1955–1970 Open-end spinning technology Water jet weaving machine Projectile shuttle and rapier loom OE-rotor-spinning machine Wave-shed weaving machine			ü ü	ü ü ü
1974–1995 OE-friction-spinning machine Air-jet weaving machine (900 min–1) Multiphase weaving machine			ü	ü ü

The process of weaving and knitting changed dramatically at the end of the first millennium AD. In the middle of the 14th century, cotton was introduced into central Europe. Due to the growing global value, improved processes required radical changes to meet demand. This led to industrialization. The post-industrial era saw the continued development of new textile products, machinery and processes. By the middle of the 20th century, significant advances in materials such as the production of polyamide, poly ester, polyacronitrile and equipment such as water-jet weaving looms and open spinning machines have taken place and the process of designing and improving continues.

Fabric processing (dyeing and printing) is also based on prehistoric times. The first strong evidence of silk dyeing and brochures from religious and social records suggest that the Indians became aware of the dyeing process by 2500 BC; however, it is also believed that the Chinese in 3500 BC practiced dyeing but no solid evidence is available to prove it. Safflower was used to dye red and yellow fabrics in about 2500 BC. The Egyptians were able to produce a whole range of textile colors by 1450 BC. After the fall of the Roman Empire, there was no record of dyeing progress until 1371 when dyes formed their independent organization in Florence and made public records of the dye. Significant advances in dyeing and printing at various times throughout history.

Status of Textiles in World Exports

According to figures from the World Trade Organization (WTO), current textile exports are equivalent to US $ 766 billion which has risen from US $ 455 billion in the nine years since the common trade rules were reintroduced in 2005, when the multi-fiber system was set up. -quota is over. Even during the critical economic years (2008-2009), trade data points to the great success of exports of textiles and clothing as in the figure.

Tab.

Period	Evolution of dyeing material and processes
3500 BC	Dyeing Practised in China but solid evidence is missing.
2500 BC	Religious and social records suggest that Indians used to dye silk and brocades.
715 BC	Wool dyeing established as craft in Rome.
327 BC	Alexander the Great mentions “beautiful printed cottons” in India.
55 BC	Romans found painted people “picti” in Gaul dyeing themselves with Woad.
2nd and 3rd AD Centuries	Roman graves found with madder- and indigo-dyed textiles, replacing the old Imperial Purple.
273 AD	Emperor Aurelian refused to let his wife buy a purpura-dyed silk garment. It cost its weight in gold.
700s	A Chinese manuscript mentions dyeing with wax resist technique.
925	The Wool Dyers’ Guilds first initiated in Germany.
1188	The first mention of Guilds for Dyers in London.
1197	King John (of Magna Carta fame) persuaded Parliament to regulate dyeing of woolens to protect the public from poor quality goods.
1212	The city of Florence had over 200 dyers, fullers and tailors. A directory of weavers and spinners was published as well.
1290	The only blue dye of the period, Woad, began to be raised extensively in Germany.
1321	Brazilwood was first mentioned as a dye, source from East Indies and India.
1472	Edward IV incorporated the Dyers’ Company of London.
1507	France, Holland and Germany begin the cultivation of dye plants as an industry.
1614	Dyeing cloth “in the wood” was introduced in England: logwood, fustic, etc.
1689	The first calico printworks was begun in Germany at Augsburg and was later to grow into a large industry.
1745	Indigo begins to be grown in England, after the Revolution when it became cheaper to import from the East Indies.
1774	Swedish chemist, Scheele, discovered chlorine destroyed vegetable colors by observing a cork in a bottle of hydrochloric acid.
1774	Prussian Blue and Sulphuric acid available commercially. Prussian blue formed from prussite of potash and iron salt (copperas). Actually one of the early chemical dyes.
1785	Bell, England, who had invented printing from plates, developed roller printing.
1786	Bertholet, France, recommended chlorine water for commercial bleaching. Other oxidizing agents also came to use: hydrogen peroxide, sodium peroxide and sodium perborate.
1788	Picric acid available (yellow dye and disinfectant), could be dyed from acid dyebath on wool.
1790	Acid discharge of mordant printing developed.
1856	William Henry Perkin discovered the first synthetic dye stuff.
1858	Griess discovered diazotization and coupling on/in the fibre.
1858–1900	Discovery of process to synthesize dyes.
1914	USA importing 90 % of its dye stuffs, a problem during WWI, as many came from Germany.
1922	The AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) formed its first subcommittee to study the wash-fastness of printed and dyed cottons, formulate testing procedures and standards of fastness.

 

Exports of textiles and textiles increased by 8% in 2013 - four times the rate of exports (2%). The top ten exporters all show the growth of Fig. The highest growth was observed by India, at 23%, and the lowest was recorded by the Republic of Korea, at 2%. Top exporters occupy similar positions, with the exception of Vietnam Nam who passed away in the United States in 2013 as the sixth largest exporter of goods and textiles. China is a leading exporter of textiles and clothing, with 39% of the world's stocks exporting clothing and 35% of textiles in 2013. However, due to rising production costs and the exchange of high value products, China has begun to import finished products from countries such as Bangladesh. The decline in textile exports indicates that about 70% of textiles are exported to developing and developed countries.